Open wide and say ARRRGH!

If you have ever opened an 8 Track you may have fallen into a common trap. Having found out how to get onto the tape you take the case apart and watch in horror as all the tape falls out. This is because to open the case you have to have the bottom facing upwards but if you do take it apart like this the tape will fall out. If it falls out you are in trouble as it is very difficult to un-spool. If it spirals off the spool then you are in for hours of unraveling which is enough to test anyone's patience. You need to keep track of the two ends of the tape. You need to know which end was at the center of the reel or your hard work will be rewarded by a tape that plays in reverse.

	The subject chosen to illustrate this section. A cheap and cheerful 8 Track. The most common method of keeping both halves of the case together is the use of 5 barbed spigots on one half latching into 5 holes in the other half.  If there is a label on the rear of the case then 3 of the holes will be found underneath. Sometimes the label is continuous from front to back and will need splitting along the case join at the bottom.
	The holes are accessed from the bottom of the case. Use a small screwdriver to force back each  barb and at the same time apply pressure to open the two halves close by. Start with the 2 at the open end, then the middle one then the two at the bottom. It takes practice. Make sure the two halves don't separate at this point as you have to turn it over to prevent the tape spilling out. The tape is contained on an open spool. The left-most image here shows the case with the top removed. The rubber pinch wheel at the top right bears against a capstan inside your player and the tape, being trapped between, is pulled from left to right from the center of the reel and returned to the outside of the reel. The open spool runs on the center spigot. Sometimes there is a nylon bearing to reduce friction.
	The tape passes over a guide, seen at the top left, which can be removed for cleaning. It has a slight conical shape in order to assist in guiding the tape from the horizontal (as it exits the center of the reel) to the vertical, as it passes over the tape heads. The rubber pinch wheel is removable and is shown left. It runs on a hollow spigot as shown in the right image.
	If the tape has parted at the splice a short length of tape will be found extending from the center of the reel. Sometimes it is too short to grip and the whole lot will need re-spooling. You need to un-spool the tape so hold as shown, to prevent it spiraling off, and guide it into a small box to prevent tangling. If it has started to spiral off the reel you have a real problem that will take hours of patience to un-do.
	Once all the tape is un-spooled don't disturb the box or it might tangle. Don't loose the end!!!
	To re-spool attach the end of the tape that came off the spool last, when un-spooling, to the center of the spool as shown. Be careful to get the tape with the oxide surface outwards. If you look at the tape you should see 8 stripes down the length of the tape (one for each gap in the tape head). This is the oxide side and must run on the outside of the spool. Carefully wind on 2 or 3 turns as shown.
	to get the correct tension place the bottom of the case as shown and place the top of the case across the tape. This also helps prevent the tape twisting and prevents snagging. The best tool for re-spooling is a pointed test lead probe or some other pointed instrument. It allows rapid rotation of the spool (in a clockwise direction) without slipping. Try to maintain rotation speed so that the tension is even throughout. Better to do it slowly for consistency until you have re-spooled a couple.
	When finished position the two ends as shown. This is important. Get the lengths as shown.
	Pinch the two ends between your finger and thumb and pull together until 2 or 3 inches are outside the case. Put the top back on ensuring the 5 barbed spigots click into position. Then join the tape as you did when reinforcing the splice.